One of the largest sets of Mayan ruins is located in Guatemala, just over the border from Belize. Naturally, Milla and I sort of had to go visit. So at 5.30am, we successfully got onto a tourist shuttle from the little village of El Remate to head to the ruins.
We arrived in the Grand Plaza at 6.30am, when there was only one other person around. The mist was still there and it was incredibly atmospheric - beautiful and eerie. After climbing a couple of the temples in the vicinity, we headed to Temple 5, a temple where one needs to climb quite a steep ladder to get to the top. Again, for a short time, we were the only ones up there, watching as the mist cleared. Obviously, many many photos were taken, including a whole series of "Gap Yah" ones. Obviously, we were incapable of going shopping on the King´s Road that day... we also got a fair few Poker Face ones.
Heading onwards to our next temple of the day (this is at 10am) I realised something. I am a complete idiot. In applying my suncream (very important) at the top of Temple V, I left my rings up there! This was particularly stupid since it was not only hotter, but as I´d started to feel unwell, I´d not eaten a huge amount. Still, I made the climb (Milla, very sensibly, did not join me for the second ascent) up and down in 7 minutes. It would have been quicker, except there was a tour group trying to climb down when I wanted to leave.
We then chilled out at the top of the highest temple in Tikal, Temple IV. I say chilled, I mean boiled. After a few more hours of wandering around, we headed back to the bus stop for a shuttle back. Not a bad day´s work, given we finished at 2pm.
The day after, we got onto another tourist shuttle down to Semuc Champey where an eco lodge, more illness, large insects and some rather exciting natural water features await.
Monday, 28 June 2010
Saturday, 26 June 2010
Indiana Jones style Caving
For serious, google the Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) Caves. We managed to go on a trip there, from San Ignacio, Belize. After a 1 hour bus ride in a classic Chicken Bus (old American school bus), we then trekked through the jungle for 45 minutes, had some lunch and went in. Think swimming to get to the entrance, much clambering, climbing, squeezing through rocks, wading through water. Very Lara Croft in Tomb Raider.
Eventually we climbed a ladder (put in place by archaeologists) and viewed a lot of Mayan pots. More wandering through the huge chamber led to human skeletons, from approximately 1200 years ago. These were human sacrifices, whether willing or not, we're not sure. You could see the holes in the skulls of some of them, which was the presumed method of death. Absolutely incredible.
If you do happen to go to Belize, highly recommended. Apparently they could close it down in a few years, which I can see why. It's not exactly the most protected of areas, in that the pots were merely surrounded by red tape. Being a rather clumsy girl, I was pretty terrified I'd stumble and break some of it, therefore ruining a priceless relic. Luckily, we left the cave accident free. Admittedly, we're now both in severe leg pain (loads of climbing) and there were times when both Milla and Claire cursed their height / Milla's slightly shorter limbs made climbing a little more tricky, whereas I struggled with some of the clambering through rocks.
Moving on from San Ignacio, we headed to the border with Guatemala. Just on the Belize side, we needed to change money. As it was about to start raining, we huddled under a little tin shack to sort it out. As the heavens opened, we realised that the football was on and being watched. So we watched the whole of the first half of the England-Algeria game in a little tin shack, on the Belizean border with the local money-changers and taxi drivers. We reckon they loved it. We decided not to waste our time watching the second half (a good decision in the end, given the result) and sped on through the Guatemalan border, paying a probably unofficial entry tax of $3. No great loss, we suppose.
Eventually we climbed a ladder (put in place by archaeologists) and viewed a lot of Mayan pots. More wandering through the huge chamber led to human skeletons, from approximately 1200 years ago. These were human sacrifices, whether willing or not, we're not sure. You could see the holes in the skulls of some of them, which was the presumed method of death. Absolutely incredible.
If you do happen to go to Belize, highly recommended. Apparently they could close it down in a few years, which I can see why. It's not exactly the most protected of areas, in that the pots were merely surrounded by red tape. Being a rather clumsy girl, I was pretty terrified I'd stumble and break some of it, therefore ruining a priceless relic. Luckily, we left the cave accident free. Admittedly, we're now both in severe leg pain (loads of climbing) and there were times when both Milla and Claire cursed their height / Milla's slightly shorter limbs made climbing a little more tricky, whereas I struggled with some of the clambering through rocks.
Moving on from San Ignacio, we headed to the border with Guatemala. Just on the Belize side, we needed to change money. As it was about to start raining, we huddled under a little tin shack to sort it out. As the heavens opened, we realised that the football was on and being watched. So we watched the whole of the first half of the England-Algeria game in a little tin shack, on the Belizean border with the local money-changers and taxi drivers. We reckon they loved it. We decided not to waste our time watching the second half (a good decision in the end, given the result) and sped on through the Guatemalan border, paying a probably unofficial entry tax of $3. No great loss, we suppose.
Thursday, 24 June 2010
Visiting Lord Ashcroft
Eventually we made it into Belize. We spent approximately 12 hours in Guatemala City (with cable TV so we spent the afternoon watching BBC World News) and then up early for MORE flights, this time via San Salvador to get to Belize.
Belize was a completely different experience. We headed pretty much straight out to Caye Caulker, a caye off the Caribbean coast. Think hammocks, white sand, palm trees, English-speaking, super friendly people. Absolutely marvellous. From a Claire-perspective, ideal on the coast due to a consistent breeze. From a Milla viewpoint, loads of strong sunlight for a tan! We even met some typical Gap Yah boys, almost to the extent of being parodies of themselves. Brilliant.
Basically we spent the week in Caye Caulker just chilling out. Read a lot, gameboyed a lot (we're so retro) and sleeping.
We watched the England-USA game in a sports bar on the beach. Pity about the shocking play (as I've always said, England are so stressful to watch) but it was nice to see many English people pulling together. Shame about the super super annoying Yank we were sat next to. He'd tried to save a seat so came along and demanded we move up (er, not acceptable IN A BAR) and was loud and obnoxious (we're not watching a basketball game, so no need to shout DEFENCE, DEFENCE). Seriously fucked off by the end of the game. Anyways, that was a minor blemish on a mostly good week.
The other thing we noticed was the amount of CRAP food available in the supermarkets. After the second day, we were feeling so bad, so we then tried to only eat rice and beans and fish and chicken and vegetables. Why are vegetables so scarce? Anyway, we realised a) how lucky we are with the supermarkets in the UK, with so much fresh food available and how one can buy takeaway salads, sandwiches, etc and b) how it is no wonder there's a problem with obesity in the USA with so much processed shit that's not even recognisable as food.
But yes, as a place to chill out, Caye Caulker rules. The most energetic thing either of us did was me going windsurfing. Love it.
Belize was a completely different experience. We headed pretty much straight out to Caye Caulker, a caye off the Caribbean coast. Think hammocks, white sand, palm trees, English-speaking, super friendly people. Absolutely marvellous. From a Claire-perspective, ideal on the coast due to a consistent breeze. From a Milla viewpoint, loads of strong sunlight for a tan! We even met some typical Gap Yah boys, almost to the extent of being parodies of themselves. Brilliant.
Basically we spent the week in Caye Caulker just chilling out. Read a lot, gameboyed a lot (we're so retro) and sleeping.
We watched the England-USA game in a sports bar on the beach. Pity about the shocking play (as I've always said, England are so stressful to watch) but it was nice to see many English people pulling together. Shame about the super super annoying Yank we were sat next to. He'd tried to save a seat so came along and demanded we move up (er, not acceptable IN A BAR) and was loud and obnoxious (we're not watching a basketball game, so no need to shout DEFENCE, DEFENCE). Seriously fucked off by the end of the game. Anyways, that was a minor blemish on a mostly good week.
The other thing we noticed was the amount of CRAP food available in the supermarkets. After the second day, we were feeling so bad, so we then tried to only eat rice and beans and fish and chicken and vegetables. Why are vegetables so scarce? Anyway, we realised a) how lucky we are with the supermarkets in the UK, with so much fresh food available and how one can buy takeaway salads, sandwiches, etc and b) how it is no wonder there's a problem with obesity in the USA with so much processed shit that's not even recognisable as food.
But yes, as a place to chill out, Caye Caulker rules. The most energetic thing either of us did was me going windsurfing. Love it.
Sunday, 13 June 2010
Costa Rica Photos
As promised, we finally have internet where I can upload photos! I've never been this glad of a USB port before.... anyway, I've been able to upload some of the Costa Rica photos, so look! We're still alive!
First morning breakfast, looking out over the Pacific.
Milla makes a new friend...
Nasty... combination sunburn with Mindo insect bites/rash
Day 2's beach attire. Much more covered up, to prevent further burn and the cries of horror from fellow beach-goers.
Milla, considerably less covered-up
I'm teaching Milla the ways of the Poker Face pose
Ipod touch... wifi = fantastic
And finally (because I couldn't be bothered to comment them all) a lot of photos from an absolutely beautiful sunset that we happened to be on the beach for.
(This is Milla, just in case you can't tell)
First morning breakfast, looking out over the Pacific.
Milla makes a new friend...
Nasty... combination sunburn with Mindo insect bites/rash
Day 2's beach attire. Much more covered up, to prevent further burn and the cries of horror from fellow beach-goers.
Milla, considerably less covered-up
I'm teaching Milla the ways of the Poker Face pose
Ipod touch... wifi = fantasticAnd finally (because I couldn't be bothered to comment them all) a lot of photos from an absolutely beautiful sunset that we happened to be on the beach for.
(This is Milla, just in case you can't tell)
Wednesday, 9 June 2010
Sun but no surf in Santa Teresa
Apologies for the lack of photos, a lot of the internet places seem to have the USB ports taken out. Very inconvenient for when you're trying to show off sunburn and Pacific sunsets.
Casa Zen was our latest home for a week. With a name like that, how could it be anything but chilled out? Pan-Asian restaurant (incroyable and superhealthy), a yoga hall (which we didn't use) and 100m from the Pacific Coast!
Day 1 involved heading down to the beach for a late-morning visit. 2 hours later and I was feeling the after-effects. I don't think I have ever been so burnt. I reapplied Factor 30, dammit! The backs of my legs were the worst, but I also had it on my stomach and back. The face avoided it, thankfully. Even Milla got a tad burnt in a few places. The sun in Costa Rica is super strong! Wise purchases made = a long sleeved navy rash vest (well, I wanted one anyway) and some waterproof factor 50 from a surf shop.
Needless to say, I then covered up for most of the rest of the holiday. As much to avoid having to put on so much sunscreen so often as to hide the burns from the rest of the beach. There are some things that people don't need to see.
Sadly, my burns meant that it would have been too painful to surf the following day. No surfboard. Milla was still working on the tan, so we headed down. I was considerably differently attired, wearing my new rash vest and a pair of loose cotton trousers over my bikini. Managed a quick swim, but in general, did look rather out of place on the beach. It was super-hot too, the humidity in Santa Teresa is killer. We combatted this humidity by heading to an air-conditioned cafe called RendezVous, which did amazing juices and salads. Honestly, I am definitely making that one. Hot weather makes me crave fresh vegetables and healthy food, what can I say?
Other food that we've discovered includes Gallo Pinto, a breakfast dish of rice and beans. Again, a food I am going to adopt and bring back to the UK. Protein, carbs (I went for brown rice, so much healthier) with a dash of Lizano salsa. Must find recipe!
Day 3 brought with it a stomach ache for me, so again, no surfing. We did meet a whole host of Americans though, who were quite fun. A couple of them we spent quite a long time chatting too after they donated me some aloe vera and managed to discuss accents (always comes up), the US health system, politics, weed, etc. Really interesting stuff!
It was only on one of the evenings where we had a truly stunning sunset. The rest of the time, by the time 6pm rolled around, it was usually grey and forboding of tremendous storms. I don't think I've ever seen rain or lightning like it! Absolutely bouncing down. Anyway, the sunset. We'd gone for a quick stroll on the beach as a whim and ended up faced with the classic "pink and orange skies, Pacific ocean, palm trees, super calm" sunset. Beautiful. I got loads of photos. Shame I can't put them up. Grrr.
Our final day in Santa Teresa was the day I was definitely going surfing. I had my short boardshorts and rash vest on, hair up, Milla had a book for beach tanning... and I checked the waves. Noone was out. The waves were breaking very close together and were much stronger than I would have felt comfortable in. Thwarted. Still, we hung out on the beach and got to eat more healthy Asian food, so all was not lost.
In general, a week of reading a lot and getting a lot of sun. One 7 hour bus trip later and we were back in the arms of the Galileo Hostel in San Jose, ready for a flight out to Guatemala City the following day.
Tan Watch - Milla= definitely darker ("I look dirty!") as a result of the week. On the coffee scale, she's definitely more double cappucino than latte. Claire = pink (fading) with formerly neon legs plus slash of white, currently peeling on the back. Back covered in white patches of non-burn. Somehow.
Casa Zen was our latest home for a week. With a name like that, how could it be anything but chilled out? Pan-Asian restaurant (incroyable and superhealthy), a yoga hall (which we didn't use) and 100m from the Pacific Coast!
Day 1 involved heading down to the beach for a late-morning visit. 2 hours later and I was feeling the after-effects. I don't think I have ever been so burnt. I reapplied Factor 30, dammit! The backs of my legs were the worst, but I also had it on my stomach and back. The face avoided it, thankfully. Even Milla got a tad burnt in a few places. The sun in Costa Rica is super strong! Wise purchases made = a long sleeved navy rash vest (well, I wanted one anyway) and some waterproof factor 50 from a surf shop.
Needless to say, I then covered up for most of the rest of the holiday. As much to avoid having to put on so much sunscreen so often as to hide the burns from the rest of the beach. There are some things that people don't need to see.
Sadly, my burns meant that it would have been too painful to surf the following day. No surfboard. Milla was still working on the tan, so we headed down. I was considerably differently attired, wearing my new rash vest and a pair of loose cotton trousers over my bikini. Managed a quick swim, but in general, did look rather out of place on the beach. It was super-hot too, the humidity in Santa Teresa is killer. We combatted this humidity by heading to an air-conditioned cafe called RendezVous, which did amazing juices and salads. Honestly, I am definitely making that one. Hot weather makes me crave fresh vegetables and healthy food, what can I say?
Other food that we've discovered includes Gallo Pinto, a breakfast dish of rice and beans. Again, a food I am going to adopt and bring back to the UK. Protein, carbs (I went for brown rice, so much healthier) with a dash of Lizano salsa. Must find recipe!
Day 3 brought with it a stomach ache for me, so again, no surfing. We did meet a whole host of Americans though, who were quite fun. A couple of them we spent quite a long time chatting too after they donated me some aloe vera and managed to discuss accents (always comes up), the US health system, politics, weed, etc. Really interesting stuff!
It was only on one of the evenings where we had a truly stunning sunset. The rest of the time, by the time 6pm rolled around, it was usually grey and forboding of tremendous storms. I don't think I've ever seen rain or lightning like it! Absolutely bouncing down. Anyway, the sunset. We'd gone for a quick stroll on the beach as a whim and ended up faced with the classic "pink and orange skies, Pacific ocean, palm trees, super calm" sunset. Beautiful. I got loads of photos. Shame I can't put them up. Grrr.
Our final day in Santa Teresa was the day I was definitely going surfing. I had my short boardshorts and rash vest on, hair up, Milla had a book for beach tanning... and I checked the waves. Noone was out. The waves were breaking very close together and were much stronger than I would have felt comfortable in. Thwarted. Still, we hung out on the beach and got to eat more healthy Asian food, so all was not lost.
In general, a week of reading a lot and getting a lot of sun. One 7 hour bus trip later and we were back in the arms of the Galileo Hostel in San Jose, ready for a flight out to Guatemala City the following day.
Tan Watch - Milla= definitely darker ("I look dirty!") as a result of the week. On the coffee scale, she's definitely more double cappucino than latte. Claire = pink (fading) with formerly neon legs plus slash of white, currently peeling on the back. Back covered in white patches of non-burn. Somehow.
Saturday, 5 June 2010
Arriving in Santa Teresa
If this post lacks my usual enthusiasm, do bear with me - 1. The exclamation button doesn't work and 2. my legs are killing me.
So we had a long lie in on Thursday morning after the stresses and trials of travels on Wednesday, getting a late breakfast and generally chatting to the guys around the hostel. Not many girls, weirdly. Anyway, we headed out to La Coca Cola where the buses go from and ended up on the bus to Playa Santa Teresa/Montezuma. I say bus... more like 3.
Costa Rica, so far, is certainly much more gringo/traveller than Ecuador. I suppose the proximity to America, where most of the people we've met have been from, is a high factor. We met some law students and some surfers on the bus. At the ferry terminal, we changed buses, keeping an eye that our luggage definitely got transferred and then hopped on, in the process meeting a lovely French guy who lives in London and who we chatted to for quite a long time. He was also heading to Santa Teresa, whereas most people were going to Montezuma, so we kept talking.
The bus then took us from the ferry stop to a town not even on the map in Rough Guide - Cobano. This is the point where we were glad we took Galileo hostel's advice...the bus to Montezuma was broken, but not the bus to Santa Teresa. Bus went down some dodgy roads and eventually got us to El Pulpo, a restaurant we knew was in Santa Teresa. Getting off and then trying to find Casa Zen - "400m away". Er not quite. And it was tipping it down. EVentually thgough we made it to Casa Zen and into a room at 9pm. Ideal. They have a very nice, if a little expensive, Asian restaurant on site, of which we were all very grateful. Rice has never tasted so good. And the salad too.... sleep time for big time beach chilling.
So we had a long lie in on Thursday morning after the stresses and trials of travels on Wednesday, getting a late breakfast and generally chatting to the guys around the hostel. Not many girls, weirdly. Anyway, we headed out to La Coca Cola where the buses go from and ended up on the bus to Playa Santa Teresa/Montezuma. I say bus... more like 3.
Costa Rica, so far, is certainly much more gringo/traveller than Ecuador. I suppose the proximity to America, where most of the people we've met have been from, is a high factor. We met some law students and some surfers on the bus. At the ferry terminal, we changed buses, keeping an eye that our luggage definitely got transferred and then hopped on, in the process meeting a lovely French guy who lives in London and who we chatted to for quite a long time. He was also heading to Santa Teresa, whereas most people were going to Montezuma, so we kept talking.
The bus then took us from the ferry stop to a town not even on the map in Rough Guide - Cobano. This is the point where we were glad we took Galileo hostel's advice...the bus to Montezuma was broken, but not the bus to Santa Teresa. Bus went down some dodgy roads and eventually got us to El Pulpo, a restaurant we knew was in Santa Teresa. Getting off and then trying to find Casa Zen - "400m away". Er not quite. And it was tipping it down. EVentually thgough we made it to Casa Zen and into a room at 9pm. Ideal. They have a very nice, if a little expensive, Asian restaurant on site, of which we were all very grateful. Rice has never tasted so good. And the salad too.... sleep time for big time beach chilling.
Friday, 4 June 2010
Tricky Taca
4.20am, Wednesday- Most normal people are asleep. Party-animals are getting in from a big night out. Claire and Milla, on the other hand, arose, ready to hit up Quito airport. With still no idea of where they were going to end up, the girls blearily got into a taxi and headed to Aeropuerto Mariscal Sucre...
5am - A long long time with Taca representative leads to us finding out that they can get us as far as San Jose, Costa Rica, as the airport in Guatemala City is still shut and won't open until at least the afternoon (ie too late for our early afternoon flight). Receive confirmation that we will indeed be able to rebook the last leg for a time in the future.
7.15am - Fly to Lima. No problems.
9.15am - Storm through to gate. No immigration, so Milla gets through absolutely no problems. Purchase 2 bottles of diet Inca Cola and an overpriced (but worth it) Granny Smith apple. I have missed fresh fruit A LOT.
10.45am - Fly to Costa Rica.
13.45pm local time - Land San Jose, get bags, no problems. Customs decided Milla was a more desirable person in the country and gives her 40 days whilst I only got 30. Whatever. Our flight's in 29 days anyway.
14.30 - Head to arrivals at San Jose to talk to Taca about rebooking Guatemala City leg and potentially booking flights to Belize.
15.00 - Finally talk to someone from Taca after waiting in line behind a chubby blonde lady with 6 passports (presumably of the rest of her group) and the world's MOST annoying child. If we'd acted like that, particularly in the airport, there would have been slapped legs.
15.30 - Still arguing with Taca lady/waiting for her to come back from her supervisor. Apparently, we can't rebook flights without penalty, despite this being contrary to what the website says. The phrase "We feel that we have been lied to" was certainly used, particularly given the reassurances (and 45mins waiting in Quito) by the Taca rep and the website.
16.00 - Supervisor comes out on our request and instantly gives us the flights we want, no charge. Done.
16.15 - Get very expensive taxi (we knew Costa Rica was more expensive than Ecuador but $28!) to hostel Galileo in San Jose.
17.00 - Arrive at Hostel Galileo. The guys are incredible. So helfpul, energetic, positive. On their recommendation, we decided to go to Santa Teresa for the week, as it's "super chilled out" and took their hostel recommendation too. And even where they said we should go for dinner. Mexican place just down the road. Super good tacos.
Note - Mexican restaurants in Central/Latin America are amazing if you're wheat intolerant because they tend to say on the menu whether the tortillla is flour or corn, and even if it doesn't eg for my tacos, youask and they just know.
20.00 - Zonk out into bed. Definitely not getting the 6am bus to Santa Teresa.
5am - A long long time with Taca representative leads to us finding out that they can get us as far as San Jose, Costa Rica, as the airport in Guatemala City is still shut and won't open until at least the afternoon (ie too late for our early afternoon flight). Receive confirmation that we will indeed be able to rebook the last leg for a time in the future.
7.15am - Fly to Lima. No problems.
9.15am - Storm through to gate. No immigration, so Milla gets through absolutely no problems. Purchase 2 bottles of diet Inca Cola and an overpriced (but worth it) Granny Smith apple. I have missed fresh fruit A LOT.
10.45am - Fly to Costa Rica.
13.45pm local time - Land San Jose, get bags, no problems. Customs decided Milla was a more desirable person in the country and gives her 40 days whilst I only got 30. Whatever. Our flight's in 29 days anyway.
14.30 - Head to arrivals at San Jose to talk to Taca about rebooking Guatemala City leg and potentially booking flights to Belize.
15.00 - Finally talk to someone from Taca after waiting in line behind a chubby blonde lady with 6 passports (presumably of the rest of her group) and the world's MOST annoying child. If we'd acted like that, particularly in the airport, there would have been slapped legs.
15.30 - Still arguing with Taca lady/waiting for her to come back from her supervisor. Apparently, we can't rebook flights without penalty, despite this being contrary to what the website says. The phrase "We feel that we have been lied to" was certainly used, particularly given the reassurances (and 45mins waiting in Quito) by the Taca rep and the website.
16.00 - Supervisor comes out on our request and instantly gives us the flights we want, no charge. Done.
16.15 - Get very expensive taxi (we knew Costa Rica was more expensive than Ecuador but $28!) to hostel Galileo in San Jose.
17.00 - Arrive at Hostel Galileo. The guys are incredible. So helfpul, energetic, positive. On their recommendation, we decided to go to Santa Teresa for the week, as it's "super chilled out" and took their hostel recommendation too. And even where they said we should go for dinner. Mexican place just down the road. Super good tacos.
Note - Mexican restaurants in Central/Latin America are amazing if you're wheat intolerant because they tend to say on the menu whether the tortillla is flour or corn, and even if it doesn't eg for my tacos, youask and they just know.
20.00 - Zonk out into bed. Definitely not getting the 6am bus to Santa Teresa.
Monday, 31 May 2010
FOILED!
As some of you may be aware, Claire and I have done something in a previous life to annoy the volcano gods!
Having dodged the Icelandic Ash Cloud Take II in early May and having managed to get out of Baños two days before Tuanghura started erupting again, we have been foiled by Volcano Pacaya in Guatemala!
It has been erupting since last Friday but the thick ash has blocked the runway in Guatemala City. Combined with a massive tropical storm that has washed away roads and villages, we fear that Guatemala may be a no go for the time being. Plans are up in the air but we are hopeful that we can get to Costa Rica at least and then rebook the Costa Rica - Guatemala City leg at a later date.
Who said that travelling was predictable...
Having dodged the Icelandic Ash Cloud Take II in early May and having managed to get out of Baños two days before Tuanghura started erupting again, we have been foiled by Volcano Pacaya in Guatemala!
It has been erupting since last Friday but the thick ash has blocked the runway in Guatemala City. Combined with a massive tropical storm that has washed away roads and villages, we fear that Guatemala may be a no go for the time being. Plans are up in the air but we are hopeful that we can get to Costa Rica at least and then rebook the Costa Rica - Guatemala City leg at a later date.
Who said that travelling was predictable...
Munched in Mindo
The complete FAILURE of Riobamba to provide any diversions worthy of Claire and I has meant that we have been able to spend a little more time in Mindo than we had planned. Described by the Rough Guide as 'an alpine village nestled in the cloud forest' we were very excited about the various 'activities' on offer, especially the promise of home-made manjar (condensed, condensed milky caramel -like a runny toffee!)
Mindo has been fun as it has a very chilled out vibe and over the weekend was full of Ecuadorians heading out from Quito to traipse around the cloud forest and bird watch.
We decided to, erm, go for a slightly more adrenalin filled weekend that involved us battling white water rapids in tractor inner tubes, roped together with a group of evangelicals from Texas (more later...) and hurling ourselves off the tops of trees on ziplines a la Superman.
The overwhelming theme of the last few days has been the complete ravaging of our legs thanks to the very vicious Mindo mosquitos. Claire summed it up by saying that it looked like we had the plague...
These were yesterday's offering - we are even more ravaged today! Our Spanish has improved enough to go to chemists so we are now the proud owners of some medicinal liquid which we have no idea about but is being liberally applied left right and centre.
The tubing was Milla's idea after having done something similar in Laos and involved us whizzing down the river here on 5 tractor inner tubes lashed together. What we hadn't expected that we would be joined by a group of evangelicals from Texas who had spent the last 10 days in Quito 'healing the poor.' We managed to keep straight faces, which is hard for Claire at the best of times thanks to The Elastic Face, when the rather large woman next to me kept on shouting 'Glory, glory, glory to God in his greatness' whenever we got a bit wet. As we were clambering out of the river, a girl about my age who had seemed rather friendly , told me that I had 'a child-like faith ' (makes a change from child-like FACE) and that she wanted to heal me and open up my ears and mouth to God. Of course the British politeness held firm and I have been duely blessed. Now why didn't she approach Claire....
Ziplining was incredibly good fun but SCARY. Trusting the harness around your waist to prevent you from falling 250m into the bowels of the forest is a big ask but we survived! Claire even went backwards and upside down. I however was somewhatmore restrained. No photos though!
Hasta Luego!
Mindo has been fun as it has a very chilled out vibe and over the weekend was full of Ecuadorians heading out from Quito to traipse around the cloud forest and bird watch.
We decided to, erm, go for a slightly more adrenalin filled weekend that involved us battling white water rapids in tractor inner tubes, roped together with a group of evangelicals from Texas (more later...) and hurling ourselves off the tops of trees on ziplines a la Superman.
The overwhelming theme of the last few days has been the complete ravaging of our legs thanks to the very vicious Mindo mosquitos. Claire summed it up by saying that it looked like we had the plague...
These were yesterday's offering - we are even more ravaged today! Our Spanish has improved enough to go to chemists so we are now the proud owners of some medicinal liquid which we have no idea about but is being liberally applied left right and centre.
The tubing was Milla's idea after having done something similar in Laos and involved us whizzing down the river here on 5 tractor inner tubes lashed together. What we hadn't expected that we would be joined by a group of evangelicals from Texas who had spent the last 10 days in Quito 'healing the poor.' We managed to keep straight faces, which is hard for Claire at the best of times thanks to The Elastic Face, when the rather large woman next to me kept on shouting 'Glory, glory, glory to God in his greatness' whenever we got a bit wet. As we were clambering out of the river, a girl about my age who had seemed rather friendly , told me that I had 'a child-like faith ' (makes a change from child-like FACE) and that she wanted to heal me and open up my ears and mouth to God. Of course the British politeness held firm and I have been duely blessed. Now why didn't she approach Claire....
Ziplining was incredibly good fun but SCARY. Trusting the harness around your waist to prevent you from falling 250m into the bowels of the forest is a big ask but we survived! Claire even went backwards and upside down. I however was somewhatmore restrained. No photos though!
Hasta Luego!
We LOVE the disco
As promised, here is the evidence of just HOW fun disco buses can be...
Not the best photo ever taken of us, but still... Claire has been giving me lessons in Gaga pouting. I like to think that I am making progress... My ghetto impressions however still leave a lot to be desired
Adios y hasta luego
Thursday, 27 May 2010
The Sultana of the Andes. Or not quite.
Less than 24 hours after arriving in Riobamba, we found ourselves on a bus heading to Quito. It's really not like we didn't TRY to do stuff in Riobamba, it just seems like a bit of a faded glory type town. Pretty, if you like rundown pastel colours...
On the plus side, I did teach Milla how to play Gin Rummy. And we ate lunch in a house once lived in by Simon Bolivar. Also our dinner was served pretty speedily (taco pizza, anyone?). And we ate Galak, similar to MilkyBar but with crunchy rice bits in it. NOM.
On the downside, the first two cafes we tried to lunch at were both closed. Not ideal. The following morning, we thought "hmm let's head to the old bit of the town, and have a nice breakfast on the square with the palm trees." Epic fail. No cafes in sight. We managed to finally find somewhere which would sell us a limonada and then decided to go visit the Basilica and the Cathedral.
The Basilica had a rather nice dome. But it was the least inviting building, given the number of chains and padlocks. So we decided not to try to go in. The Cathedral had a good facade, recreated in approx 1800 from when the original cathedral, 20km away, was destroyed in 1797. Sadly, the inside looked like a 1960s wooden modernish church. Disappointing.
At this point, we decided to cut our losses and head out of Riobamba. En route, we did go to a supermarket and purchase some actual breakfast (yoghurt drinks and raisins). The supermarket turned out to be one of the top features of Riobamba.
Needless to say, there are no photos of Riobamba. The Beast stayed firmly in its case.
On a separate note, TANWATCH. Milla is currently a shade of golden brown with some darker freckles. Think a chicken´s egg. I am still ghostly, admittedly with a smattering of freckles (cream) and a slash of blancmange (I think I must have caught my arm against something after applying the factor 30).
On the plus side, I did teach Milla how to play Gin Rummy. And we ate lunch in a house once lived in by Simon Bolivar. Also our dinner was served pretty speedily (taco pizza, anyone?). And we ate Galak, similar to MilkyBar but with crunchy rice bits in it. NOM.
On the downside, the first two cafes we tried to lunch at were both closed. Not ideal. The following morning, we thought "hmm let's head to the old bit of the town, and have a nice breakfast on the square with the palm trees." Epic fail. No cafes in sight. We managed to finally find somewhere which would sell us a limonada and then decided to go visit the Basilica and the Cathedral.
The Basilica had a rather nice dome. But it was the least inviting building, given the number of chains and padlocks. So we decided not to try to go in. The Cathedral had a good facade, recreated in approx 1800 from when the original cathedral, 20km away, was destroyed in 1797. Sadly, the inside looked like a 1960s wooden modernish church. Disappointing.
At this point, we decided to cut our losses and head out of Riobamba. En route, we did go to a supermarket and purchase some actual breakfast (yoghurt drinks and raisins). The supermarket turned out to be one of the top features of Riobamba.
Needless to say, there are no photos of Riobamba. The Beast stayed firmly in its case.
On a separate note, TANWATCH. Milla is currently a shade of golden brown with some darker freckles. Think a chicken´s egg. I am still ghostly, admittedly with a smattering of freckles (cream) and a slash of blancmange (I think I must have caught my arm against something after applying the factor 30).
Wednesday, 26 May 2010
Baño! Baño! Baños!
And......we're back. Live and on your screens from Riobamba, Ecuador!
The last few days have been extremely relaxing and chilled out for various reasons. The main one being that Baños is in itself a spa town of some renown which may have explained our difficulty in finding anywhere to stay on our first night. The comment from the slightly crusty hippy who told us, upon seeing us struggle across the road from the terminal terrestre with all of our worldly belongings on our back, a la Esio Trot, that he wished us 'Good Luck' in finding a hostel shouls have warned us I suppose.
Baños is most definitely a party town. Disco buses roam the streets at night and there is no shortage of gringo bars offering 2 for 1 cocktails and film evenings. Although this made life very 'easy' when finding anywhere to eat or drink, there were far too many gap yah tragedies and aging hippies! Our second hostal (Milla's first night's efforts were deemed rather pricey - Ed. the only other alternative was sleeping on the street) was cheap and cheerful with lovely hammocks and luscious gardens. Milla enjoyed the hammocks to their full extent during her convalescence, of which more later
Baños itself is at the foot of an active volcano which has lead to the town's evacuation several times. Perhap this explains the festive atmosphere - with a smoking volcano just above them, its inhabitants just want to relax and enjoy life. This joie de vivre was certainly encountered at one of the many hot springs that surround the town.
Claire and I decided to head to the Piscinas de la Virgen in the evening to enjoy a nocturnal dip in the volcanic waters undisturbed by fellow travellers. What we hadn't reckoned on was that the entire population of Baños would be there too! With her auburn locks and pale skin, Claire was the centre of attention, particularly from the young men. Never mind that her most ardent suitor was about 5 and his idea of flirting was to splash his beloved! The water was a wonderful hot bath temperature but did leave us smelling a little of sulphur.
Other diversions included a nighttime trip on one of the ubiquitous disco buses up to the viewpoint over the town. For at least half of the year this also includes a view of the wrupting volcano but, fortunately or unfortunately, it wasn't cooperating when we went up. The view over the town and the surrounding mountains, shrouded in cloud, was still pretty spectacular. The best bit? Definitely the disco bus. Our cameras bear testament to this but the internet is currently too slow to upload. We promise to do a photo post soon!
As for the title of this post? Thanks to Claire's earlier adventures at trying to avoid losing Milla on the Panamerican Highway, we now know what the Spanish for 'loo' is. This was lucky as one of our party was hit badly by that scourge of travellers - delhi belly, a dicky tum - take your pick. All fine now thanks to careful nursing and much Dioralyte. Eurgh. NOt what we wanted at all.
We've now made it to Riobamba where we had hoped to go on the famous Devil's Nose railway (Nariz del Diabolo) Unfortunately, we went to the train station to buy the tickets but found out that it is closed for repairs! Oh no! Plans have thus been changed and we are heading to Mindo and the cloud forest a day earlier.
I can't believe that we've only got a week left to go in Ecuador. It seems like no time at all since we jetted off from Heathrow, and yet we've done so much in the past three weeks.
Missing you all, and bye for now
The last few days have been extremely relaxing and chilled out for various reasons. The main one being that Baños is in itself a spa town of some renown which may have explained our difficulty in finding anywhere to stay on our first night. The comment from the slightly crusty hippy who told us, upon seeing us struggle across the road from the terminal terrestre with all of our worldly belongings on our back, a la Esio Trot, that he wished us 'Good Luck' in finding a hostel shouls have warned us I suppose.
Baños is most definitely a party town. Disco buses roam the streets at night and there is no shortage of gringo bars offering 2 for 1 cocktails and film evenings. Although this made life very 'easy' when finding anywhere to eat or drink, there were far too many gap yah tragedies and aging hippies! Our second hostal (Milla's first night's efforts were deemed rather pricey - Ed. the only other alternative was sleeping on the street) was cheap and cheerful with lovely hammocks and luscious gardens. Milla enjoyed the hammocks to their full extent during her convalescence, of which more later
Baños itself is at the foot of an active volcano which has lead to the town's evacuation several times. Perhap this explains the festive atmosphere - with a smoking volcano just above them, its inhabitants just want to relax and enjoy life. This joie de vivre was certainly encountered at one of the many hot springs that surround the town.
Claire and I decided to head to the Piscinas de la Virgen in the evening to enjoy a nocturnal dip in the volcanic waters undisturbed by fellow travellers. What we hadn't reckoned on was that the entire population of Baños would be there too! With her auburn locks and pale skin, Claire was the centre of attention, particularly from the young men. Never mind that her most ardent suitor was about 5 and his idea of flirting was to splash his beloved! The water was a wonderful hot bath temperature but did leave us smelling a little of sulphur.
Other diversions included a nighttime trip on one of the ubiquitous disco buses up to the viewpoint over the town. For at least half of the year this also includes a view of the wrupting volcano but, fortunately or unfortunately, it wasn't cooperating when we went up. The view over the town and the surrounding mountains, shrouded in cloud, was still pretty spectacular. The best bit? Definitely the disco bus. Our cameras bear testament to this but the internet is currently too slow to upload. We promise to do a photo post soon!
As for the title of this post? Thanks to Claire's earlier adventures at trying to avoid losing Milla on the Panamerican Highway, we now know what the Spanish for 'loo' is. This was lucky as one of our party was hit badly by that scourge of travellers - delhi belly, a dicky tum - take your pick. All fine now thanks to careful nursing and much Dioralyte. Eurgh. NOt what we wanted at all.
We've now made it to Riobamba where we had hoped to go on the famous Devil's Nose railway (Nariz del Diabolo) Unfortunately, we went to the train station to buy the tickets but found out that it is closed for repairs! Oh no! Plans have thus been changed and we are heading to Mindo and the cloud forest a day earlier.
I can't believe that we've only got a week left to go in Ecuador. It seems like no time at all since we jetted off from Heathrow, and yet we've done so much in the past three weeks.
Missing you all, and bye for now
Thursday, 20 May 2010
One long bus journey and a pretty colonial city later...
Cathedral NuevoWe left Quito with plans to mosey up Andean Ecuador from Cuenca northwards back to Quito. However, this did mean getting to Cuenca first. A 10 hour bus journey faced us. Despite the sweltering heat, a couple of Ecuadorians felt the need to close the window. All journey. NOOOOO.
Ecuadorian buses are interesting - they stop ALL the time to pick people up. By stop, I mean slow down and keep trundling at a very slow pace (particularly for the people selling food and drink), which means there's a lot of potential for people to fall over. I've only seen it happen once though.
Getting the balance between drinking enough so one didn't expire and not drinking so much that one doesn't have to go to the toilet every half hour is a tricky one. I personally failed on this front, being about as dehydrated as I've ever been (despite the 5 bottles of water consumed en route) at least learning from the trip that thirst is my big weakness.
Trying to deal with toilet stops was also interesting. Latacunga came around, a reasonable sized town about 2.5 hours from Quito. The bus stopped for a bit of time and Milla asked the conductor about the bano. Fine, pointed her out towards them. Whilst Milla was in the bathroom, the driver decided he would pull away. I panicked somewhat, the bus stopped for a minute and then carried on. Milla was running towards the bus and I was desperately shouting in crap Spanish. Thankfully the bus driver did not leave her behind.
The rest of the journey was fairly uneventful. We got to watch Casino Royale in Spanish (yey for Bond films being easy to understand!) whilst the sun was setting and we were driving through the Andes at cloud level. Two very tired girls arrived in Cuenca, chose a hotel at random from the Rough Guide and made it. Thankfully, it has turned out to be rather nice (admittedly they made us change rooms last night, telling us that there'd be two boys so could we have the double bed? This turned out to be a lie...).
Cuenca times - we've mostly been chilling out. Cuenca is a much nicer town than Quito, by a long way. We have spent a day or so reading and relaxing and wandering around Cuenca getting to know the area. The Cathedral Nuevo is a very large Cathedral which is so large that it doesn't feel as ornate as a typical Catholic church. Two very unusual features - an incredibly ugly statue of Pope Jean Paul II and a statue of "Disco Jesus". We're talking metallic blue and silver robes with a halo with gold stars coming off it. BRILLIANT.
Ugly JP
Disco JesusWe made friends with one guy, Ed, who's spending a month out here, a break from his uni course of Animal Behaviour and Welfare. Interesting chap, travelling with two friends who don't want to do the same things as him, so we suggested he join us on our trip to Ingapirca.
Ingapirca is a set of Incan ruins about 2 hours from Cuenca. Some travel agency said they could organise a tour (not including entrance fees) for $45. Ummm, no. So we got the bus ourselves (return for $5) and spent a couple of hours there. No more required. I have purchased a mini-Ocarina so I can be closer to the spirits like our guide in Pullulahua and also a shawl that I can say I got on my Gap Yah.
It struck me on the trip up how traditionally people still dress. There is classic Andean dress everywhere. I managed to sneak a few pics from the bus, since it's taking a while to upload, I think I'll not bother putting those ones up yet.
Splash jacket goes to the Inca ruins
Milla models in a very strong Incan door frame
I'll crop this later. It's in the Sun Temple at the top of IngapircaMeals have been slightly more expensive than I initially thought, but the cheapest one (a Columbian cafe) was SOOOO good. On a wheat-intolerance note, a lot of the South American places do use corn. I had a corn pancake in the Columbian place and the Mexican place we went to specifically says "corn tortilla" or "wheat tortilla". Bloody marvellous.
DO NOT (if you're ever in Cuenca) go to Cafe Eucalyptus. The food was nice if a bit expensive. The atmosphere was also pretty good. However, the service left A LOT to be desired. They took a long time taking our order, fine. However, my meal arrived first (and it was Ceviche, so cold) in two parts. The ceviche arrived with some popcorn, then the rice came 15 minutes later, along with the other 2 meals. One meal was fine. However, Milla had asked, in Spanish, for her Pad Thai to not have shrimp in it. It had shrimp. It then took a further 20 minutes for her new meal to arrive, putting time at at least 50 minutes since her initial order. We did not pay service and Milla did not pay for her meal. Absolutely atrocious. Not what's expected given it's double recommendation in the Rough Guide (and, I hear, in numerous other travel guides). I am of a mind to email the English owner to inform him, and to inform Rough Guide as well.
Nevertheless, Cuenca itself is a very nice city, which is why we've spent almost a week here! Next stop - Banos.
Sunday, 16 May 2010
A few Galapagah photos
Finally! I have internet that is (only slightly) faster than dial-up so I can get a few photos up! This is only a selection of the 350 I took in the Galap and since a facebook album is inevitable when I get home, these focus more on Milla and I, to show you we´re alive. Less wildlife, more WildClique.
If there happen to be giant tortoise shells hanging around the tortoise reserve, there´s no option other than to try them on for size, right?
The colours of this one have been muted somewhat by the rubbish Blogger upload thing. Nevertheless, I´m kissing the gun which says "Galapagos Islands 2010" on a background of gorgeous white sands and blue seas. You should see the Poker Face beach photos.
Milla makes friends with a sea lion.
Our trusty boat. Can´t remember its name, something like Santa del Cruz.
Mamma Mia was our inspiration for these snorkelling shots. We´re so cool. Dad, this one´s for you!
I did say that Galapagos Penguins existed!
Mahoosive tortoise, probably 120 years old and weighing approx 250kg (600lbs).
If there happen to be giant tortoise shells hanging around the tortoise reserve, there´s no option other than to try them on for size, right?
One of the recently hatched sea turtles I wrote about in a previous post (short lived, but everlasting in the photos).
The colours of this one have been muted somewhat by the rubbish Blogger upload thing. Nevertheless, I´m kissing the gun which says "Galapagos Islands 2010" on a background of gorgeous white sands and blue seas. You should see the Poker Face beach photos.
Milla makes friends with a sea lion.
Our trusty boat. Can´t remember its name, something like Santa del Cruz. 
Mamma Mia was our inspiration for these snorkelling shots. We´re so cool. Dad, this one´s for you!
I did say that Galapagos Penguins existed!
Mahoosive tortoise, probably 120 years old and weighing approx 250kg (600lbs).
Saturday, 15 May 2010
Two hemispheres but one hive mind
The original title of this post was going to be `Quito : not so neat-o´ but today has been fantastic fun after a rather draining day yesterday.My ambivalence about Quito started at about 10.01 yesterday morning when we left the luxurious confines of Casa Foch and were sent on our way to find somewhat cheaper accomodation. No cockroaches have been spotted at Hostel Camena but there may be some lurking under our beautiful navy loo! As natural social beings we do like being where the action is, but not necessarily right outside our window until 2am. It turns out that the hostal is more-or-less in between two of Quito´s busiest clubs and yesterday being a Friday night... Luckily the police arrived at 2am and it quitened down after that*
(* note to concerned parents = we are fine so don´t inundate us with concerned emails. Unless you want to of course. We like emails. Hint hint)
Yesterday morning was spent to find the Peruvian Embassy due to Milla´s sudden realisation that she might not in fact be allowed into Peru due to a short period of illegal immigration 6 years ago. Claire conceded that this might cause problems in getting to Guatemala. A short trip across town with a rather chatty taxi driver later, and the airline confirmed that this shouldn´t be a problem. They also told us that we hadn´t paid for the tickets so I guess we´ll see whether Milla is persona non grata amongst Paddington´s friends and relations.
The Old Town in Quito is stunning. With its colonial architecture and snowy walls, the main square is a tourist destination in itself. After a quick nod to culture we headed there for a well earned rest and managed to shake off the numerous shoe shine boys. Feeling rather jaded we headed off to meet Peng, Rosanne and John (who share nothing with some of our other fellow Galapageans - see Claire´s previous post) and from thence to the TeleferiQo which is a cable car that goes up one of the mountains behind Quito. We were very excited about it.
We managed to get there to watch the evening sun over the city and then watch as the sun set over the snow capped mountains behind. Just stunningly beautiful. What wasn´t so nice was the bitter cold up there at 4150m!
Today has been somewhat more enjoyable. After a quick fact finding mission to Happy Gringo, a misonomer if ever, Claire and I decided not to follow the well trodded tourist route to El Mediad del Mundo and to make our own way by local bus which was an experience in itself.The Mediad del Mundo is a massive monument and associated tourist trappy shops on the Equator itself. Today´s main attraction there? Claire and I taking monumentally silly photos and generally making idiots of ourselves. All good fun though. After having saved $29.20 on getting there (Tour company - $30. Local bus - $0.80. Getting one over on Happy Gringo - priceless) we decided to go on a trip to the nearly volcano crater and the cloud forest. Having picked up a lone American in Quito, the three of us set off with the guide, through a barbed wire fence, through a field of cows and down an inpenetrable path. What we hadn´t expected to see was the largest inhabited volcanic crater in the world. We got there just in time before the clouds closed over it. Photos will follow!
Our guide was very into spiritual stuff and told us loads of interesting stuff before playing his ocarina into the winds and praying to Pacha Mama and asking us to keep quiet and offer our prayers and thanks to Mother Earth.
Claire and I were struck by a sudden feeling of awah-ness of the awesome power of Mother Nature. It was, like, almost enough to make us forget about the awesome lash of the Sloaney Pony. I looked into our guide´s eyes and felt an immediate connection with his Quechua forebears. Then Claire chundered everywhere* (*Apologies to The Unexpected Items)
Back to Quito and planning to head to Cuenca tomorrow. A 13hr bus journey awaits us....
And just to make you jealous.....
Friday, 14 May 2010
Galapagos Part 2 : "Interesting" Characters
As at time of last writing, we gained a whole load of new travellers (and lost some lovely ones, booo). We went from our cosy, youthful group of 9 people to a somewhat, er, more experienced group of 16. Most of the newcomers were interesting and completely pleasant but there were certain characters who were rather less fun.
1) Tweetie Pie aka Budgie Smuggler - a German fellow the colour of Milla´s Mulberry handbag who wore matching speedos and bandana. Had a rather nasty bout of BO and sweaty feet following him, meaning we tried to remain upwind of him. He´d been travelling for 8 months and ALWAYS slowed us down taking thousands (seriously, I thought I was bad) of photos. Despite never snorkelling even once, he felt the need to remove his trousers to reveal the speedos at every possible opportunity. He also made the sweeping assumption of "Oh you don´t speak a word of German do you?" when speaking in German with the Painted Lady in front of me. Actually matey, my speaking is not up to scratch but I did in fact understand most of what you said.
2) The Painted Lady - another German (I´m not racist), this lady had the build of a channel swimmer, and a face drawn on. I´d love to say perfectly but it was quite... different. As condescending regarding our life choices (I know, having a job? Disgusting.) as Tweetie Pie, she was, admittedly, one of the less annoying members of the three I´m writing about.
3) Bahn-nie - Pretty much everything I despise about Americans in one package, minus the obesity (she had at least taken care of herself that way). The most definining characteristic? Money-obsessed. Seriously, about half of the questions she asked were about money. "How much did you pay for the trip? Was that included? How much will you earn when you start? How much did you pay for dinner? How much was this? How much do you plan to spend per day in the rest of your travels?". Loud, obnoxious, very self-centred when not asking about money. I think the realisation came to me that she was a few dollars short of a wallet when she said "Oh I didn´t think you could do ANYTHING with a physics degree!".
ANYWAY - the rest of the Galapagos!
Espanola Island was our next stop, we spent the morning doing a 3 hour walk around the island. Despite it being 7.45-10.45, we were SO hot. Easily the hottest day on the tour, Milla and I drank a good 2l of water between us on the walk alone. I´m sure it would have been better if we´d not stopped for 7 years to allow 4 millions photos (I may be exaggerating a little). The effecyts of the water were felt by Milla but bizarrely not by me... somehow I´ve held on to a LOT of water. Afternoon was a smidge more snorkelling - I know, our lives are so tough - but we mostly messed about on the beach after discovering that the marine wildlife was fairly minimal.
Floreana was our final full day of tour - luckily it was considerably cooler than the previous day. We visited post office bay in the morning, where travellers leave postcards and pick up those from the place where they live, meaning that postcards could take a long time to arrive, but it´s all free. We then snorkelled a lot in the water with our guide (that´s how you know it´s a good snorkelling area, if Hansel gets in the water too!) around "Devil´s Crown", a submerged crater, and saw LOADS of things - sea lions playing, sharks and a whole swarm of golden rays. We walked on a beach as well in Floreana and saw two baby sea turtles, recently hatched, make their way to the ocean. In true natural selection style, they were eaten by frigate birds once they got to the water (well, stupid turtles for hatching in the middle of the day!).
The very last day of the tour involved getyting up early to go to see Lonesome George, the last Isla Pinta giant tortoise and then having a slight nightmare with flights being super delayed. Nevertheless, despite being trapped with Bahn-nie for 4 hours longer than anticipated, we made it to Quito in one piece.
A marvellous trip all in all, despite a few bouts of seasickness and some colourful characters.
Special mention goes to Miguelito - engineer on the boat who was a particular fan of Milla´s chest (well, why not?) and to whom we grew quite friendly. Bless. He did have a rather obscene tshirt which translated roughly as "I´m no gynaecologist, but I wouldn´t mind checking you out". Lovely. Weirdly he did have a girlfriend who´s a partner in a London law firm.
1) Tweetie Pie aka Budgie Smuggler - a German fellow the colour of Milla´s Mulberry handbag who wore matching speedos and bandana. Had a rather nasty bout of BO and sweaty feet following him, meaning we tried to remain upwind of him. He´d been travelling for 8 months and ALWAYS slowed us down taking thousands (seriously, I thought I was bad) of photos. Despite never snorkelling even once, he felt the need to remove his trousers to reveal the speedos at every possible opportunity. He also made the sweeping assumption of "Oh you don´t speak a word of German do you?" when speaking in German with the Painted Lady in front of me. Actually matey, my speaking is not up to scratch but I did in fact understand most of what you said.
2) The Painted Lady - another German (I´m not racist), this lady had the build of a channel swimmer, and a face drawn on. I´d love to say perfectly but it was quite... different. As condescending regarding our life choices (I know, having a job? Disgusting.) as Tweetie Pie, she was, admittedly, one of the less annoying members of the three I´m writing about.
3) Bahn-nie - Pretty much everything I despise about Americans in one package, minus the obesity (she had at least taken care of herself that way). The most definining characteristic? Money-obsessed. Seriously, about half of the questions she asked were about money. "How much did you pay for the trip? Was that included? How much will you earn when you start? How much did you pay for dinner? How much was this? How much do you plan to spend per day in the rest of your travels?". Loud, obnoxious, very self-centred when not asking about money. I think the realisation came to me that she was a few dollars short of a wallet when she said "Oh I didn´t think you could do ANYTHING with a physics degree!".
ANYWAY - the rest of the Galapagos!
Espanola Island was our next stop, we spent the morning doing a 3 hour walk around the island. Despite it being 7.45-10.45, we were SO hot. Easily the hottest day on the tour, Milla and I drank a good 2l of water between us on the walk alone. I´m sure it would have been better if we´d not stopped for 7 years to allow 4 millions photos (I may be exaggerating a little). The effecyts of the water were felt by Milla but bizarrely not by me... somehow I´ve held on to a LOT of water. Afternoon was a smidge more snorkelling - I know, our lives are so tough - but we mostly messed about on the beach after discovering that the marine wildlife was fairly minimal.
Floreana was our final full day of tour - luckily it was considerably cooler than the previous day. We visited post office bay in the morning, where travellers leave postcards and pick up those from the place where they live, meaning that postcards could take a long time to arrive, but it´s all free. We then snorkelled a lot in the water with our guide (that´s how you know it´s a good snorkelling area, if Hansel gets in the water too!) around "Devil´s Crown", a submerged crater, and saw LOADS of things - sea lions playing, sharks and a whole swarm of golden rays. We walked on a beach as well in Floreana and saw two baby sea turtles, recently hatched, make their way to the ocean. In true natural selection style, they were eaten by frigate birds once they got to the water (well, stupid turtles for hatching in the middle of the day!).
The very last day of the tour involved getyting up early to go to see Lonesome George, the last Isla Pinta giant tortoise and then having a slight nightmare with flights being super delayed. Nevertheless, despite being trapped with Bahn-nie for 4 hours longer than anticipated, we made it to Quito in one piece.
A marvellous trip all in all, despite a few bouts of seasickness and some colourful characters.
Special mention goes to Miguelito - engineer on the boat who was a particular fan of Milla´s chest (well, why not?) and to whom we grew quite friendly. Bless. He did have a rather obscene tshirt which translated roughly as "I´m no gynaecologist, but I wouldn´t mind checking you out". Lovely. Weirdly he did have a girlfriend who´s a partner in a London law firm.
Wednesday, 12 May 2010
Galapagos Episode 1
This is a scheduled post, so we´re actually probably on a boat in the middle of the Pacific right now, pèrhaps sipping a tasty juice, waiting to get onto our next island...
A pair of very tired girls landed in the Galapagos and were immediately assaulted by tropical views and muchos wildlife. We´re definitely not in London any more... Our boat is small but pretty nice, the food is good and the climes are super hot. Equatorial life isn´t it!
Apparently, I now suffer from seasickness - an unexpected discovery, since I never USED to get ill on boats! Still, lying down makes me feel much better. Sometimes the boat is so rocky that even Milla, Queen of the Sea, isn´t quite at her best, only reaching the second-to-top deck.
So far we have visited several islands and snorkelled a lot as well. I know it´s a cliche but the islands really are teeming with wildlife. On our first day, we visited the giant tortoise reserve. And those things are HUGE. Apparently they can weigh up to 250kg (600 lbs). Pretty incredible. We managed to get pictures of us with them (pretty close!) so you´ll be able to see the true size soon enough.
We´ve snorkelled with sharks, starfish, tropical fish, stingrays, Galapagos penguins and playful sea lions, but the highlight for me was swimming in the immediate vicinity of a sea turtle. Amazing.
Bartoleme Island was also pretty cool - we trekked up a volcano and gazed upon a moonscape - those of you who´ve seen the film Total Recall - this is where Arnie escaped on Mars or something. Master and Commander was also filmed there.
I´d say that from a wildlife perspective, North Seymour Island was incredible - frigate birds with big red inflatable pouches, land and marine iguanas, sea lions, blue footed boobies... beautiful. Everything stays pretty close too, the animals haven´t had time to develop fear of humans in the same way as they have in the UK (or anywhere else I´ve visited), meaning we get some incredible (sorry, am overusing this word but it´s hard not to!) photos. So glad I got the Beast for this trip.
Tan watch - Milla is just coming through the initial phases of "pink with a tinge", whereas I am still predominantly a pale shade of lily, with occasional pink tones. Neither of us are even approaching the mahogany/tango shade of orange that Dan is able to within a couple of days. It will be some sort of miracle if I ever even look vaguely golden. Just gotta keep slapping on that factor 50!
I´d upload pictures but this connection is pretty slow.... needless to say, both Milla and I have gone a bit snap happy. Pics to follow.
A pair of very tired girls landed in the Galapagos and were immediately assaulted by tropical views and muchos wildlife. We´re definitely not in London any more... Our boat is small but pretty nice, the food is good and the climes are super hot. Equatorial life isn´t it!
Apparently, I now suffer from seasickness - an unexpected discovery, since I never USED to get ill on boats! Still, lying down makes me feel much better. Sometimes the boat is so rocky that even Milla, Queen of the Sea, isn´t quite at her best, only reaching the second-to-top deck.
So far we have visited several islands and snorkelled a lot as well. I know it´s a cliche but the islands really are teeming with wildlife. On our first day, we visited the giant tortoise reserve. And those things are HUGE. Apparently they can weigh up to 250kg (600 lbs). Pretty incredible. We managed to get pictures of us with them (pretty close!) so you´ll be able to see the true size soon enough.
We´ve snorkelled with sharks, starfish, tropical fish, stingrays, Galapagos penguins and playful sea lions, but the highlight for me was swimming in the immediate vicinity of a sea turtle. Amazing.
Bartoleme Island was also pretty cool - we trekked up a volcano and gazed upon a moonscape - those of you who´ve seen the film Total Recall - this is where Arnie escaped on Mars or something. Master and Commander was also filmed there.
I´d say that from a wildlife perspective, North Seymour Island was incredible - frigate birds with big red inflatable pouches, land and marine iguanas, sea lions, blue footed boobies... beautiful. Everything stays pretty close too, the animals haven´t had time to develop fear of humans in the same way as they have in the UK (or anywhere else I´ve visited), meaning we get some incredible (sorry, am overusing this word but it´s hard not to!) photos. So glad I got the Beast for this trip.
Tan watch - Milla is just coming through the initial phases of "pink with a tinge", whereas I am still predominantly a pale shade of lily, with occasional pink tones. Neither of us are even approaching the mahogany/tango shade of orange that Dan is able to within a couple of days. It will be some sort of miracle if I ever even look vaguely golden. Just gotta keep slapping on that factor 50!
I´d upload pictures but this connection is pretty slow.... needless to say, both Milla and I have gone a bit snap happy. Pics to follow.
Monday, 10 May 2010
Mission Get through US Immigration : Completed
Wednesday 5th May 2010 if you cast your minds back was a very good day for Super Clique (apologies to Flanders and Swann, Lucy and Belinda) The LPC had been put behind us, no emails had been received from any law firms and that silly Icelandic volcano had decided not to drift southwards and annoy Heathrow.
An early start for all, meaning a fond farewell to a certain person on the District Line platform at Earls Court and a very excited greeting on the Picadilly line platform of the same. There was no official handover of Milla, but Claire has been told to look after me!
Continental Airlines, we have decided are NOT a Good Thing. An inbound flight delay meant that we were an hour late taking off, leaving us 45 mins to clear US Immigration, grab a Starbucks and nip onto the Quito flight. Some time was made up but Milla still had to bat her eyelashes at the flight attendants to get us off the plane quickly! This tactic seems to work on immigration officers too as they let her through, even though technically she had never left the country.... ( Note to self : please make sure that you hand in that little green card next time)
A second hurdle was encountered when we were told that Quito airport was shut. This would have caused problems as it was already midnight and we were supposed to be leaving for the Galap at 7am. All fine though.
We are currently sunning ourselves in San Cristobal in the Galapagos, but for more info on that, you´ll have to await Claire´s magnum opus.
Farewell and adieu. xxx
An early start for all, meaning a fond farewell to a certain person on the District Line platform at Earls Court and a very excited greeting on the Picadilly line platform of the same. There was no official handover of Milla, but Claire has been told to look after me!
Continental Airlines, we have decided are NOT a Good Thing. An inbound flight delay meant that we were an hour late taking off, leaving us 45 mins to clear US Immigration, grab a Starbucks and nip onto the Quito flight. Some time was made up but Milla still had to bat her eyelashes at the flight attendants to get us off the plane quickly! This tactic seems to work on immigration officers too as they let her through, even though technically she had never left the country.... ( Note to self : please make sure that you hand in that little green card next time)
A second hurdle was encountered when we were told that Quito airport was shut. This would have caused problems as it was already midnight and we were supposed to be leaving for the Galap at 7am. All fine though.
We are currently sunning ourselves in San Cristobal in the Galapagos, but for more info on that, you´ll have to await Claire´s magnum opus.
Farewell and adieu. xxx
Monday, 3 May 2010
All my bags are packed and I'm ready to go...
Less than 48hrs until we will be leaving on a jet plane, but the difference between Claire and I and John Denver is that we DO know when we will be back again. There is a little something called WORK to get back for. Freshfields and Norton Rose would not, I fear, be too pleased if we decided to throw all the funding that they've given us away and turn our gap yah into a permanent one*
(* as in they'd ask for all that cash back! I for one do not have a spare 35k hanging around!)
Yep, as our faithful followers will have seen from Claire's post, the horror that was the Accelerated LPC can now be put behind us and we can set off for faraway lands with a light heart and, I hope, light rucksacks.
My marks were,erm, close to the wire to say the least but the most important thing is that they were all over the required 50% and so it's a good 'un. The sense of relief is enormous and we can now get on with enjoying ourselves without the threat of an early flight home to revise and to bury our heads once again in the LPDT rules, the Combined Code or Butterworth's. There'll be time enough for that once we are proper working girls who solicite for our daily bread.
Although last Friday produced a massive high, it was tinged with sadness and overshadowed somewhat by the dreadful news that there had been a catastrophic fire at the boatyard where my father kept Makai, his pride and joy, and that she had been inside.
It seems trite that in a world where so many terrible things happen to people to say that I am bereft but it does feel like a bereavement. She (as boats are ALWAYS female) was such a huge part of all of us, not least my father. Not for nothing was she referred to amongst friends and family as 'Mark's floating mistress' for the amount of time, love, affection and I dare say money that was lavished upon her!
She was a Bombay Tomtit and was built before WWII very close to where she was sailed on the East Coast for many years, she was an extremely handsome wooden day boat and had been a part of river life for many many years. My father 'rescued' her several years ago and restored her to her former glory. Seeing her make her way down river, her white sails filled with the wind, the sun glinting off her teak decks and her white hull slicing through the water, she was a joy to behold and joy to us all. Not to mention a VERY sucessful racer - the Bombay Bowl was a feature on our dining room table for several years.
This however, is NOT Makai, as it is somewhat difficult to photograph a boat when you're in it! But apart from the decking, she looked identical. It was a terrible terrible shock and so unexpected.
The Tomtit fleet at Orford was made up of 4 boats, Nadya (4), Hebe (5 - pictured), Tania (8) and our darling Makai (9).
I heard today that come next summer (we hope!) there will
once again be 4 Bombay Tomtits at Orford as my father has decided to ask the boatbuilder in whose shed she was to rebuild her. A brave decision and one that I am absolutely thrilled about.
It was the thought of 'bits' of her being left (we still have her sails and mast) that was the heartbreaking thing, but as some parts of the old Makai will be be part of the new Makai, she will still be with us and will continue to sail on the River Ore.
Not to mention the fact that I reckon that the Bridges' should have first dibs on the Bombay Bowl for the next few years....
(* as in they'd ask for all that cash back! I for one do not have a spare 35k hanging around!)
Yep, as our faithful followers will have seen from Claire's post, the horror that was the Accelerated LPC can now be put behind us and we can set off for faraway lands with a light heart and, I hope, light rucksacks.
My marks were,erm, close to the wire to say the least but the most important thing is that they were all over the required 50% and so it's a good 'un. The sense of relief is enormous and we can now get on with enjoying ourselves without the threat of an early flight home to revise and to bury our heads once again in the LPDT rules, the Combined Code or Butterworth's. There'll be time enough for that once we are proper working girls who solicite for our daily bread.
Although last Friday produced a massive high, it was tinged with sadness and overshadowed somewhat by the dreadful news that there had been a catastrophic fire at the boatyard where my father kept Makai, his pride and joy, and that she had been inside.
It seems trite that in a world where so many terrible things happen to people to say that I am bereft but it does feel like a bereavement. She (as boats are ALWAYS female) was such a huge part of all of us, not least my father. Not for nothing was she referred to amongst friends and family as 'Mark's floating mistress' for the amount of time, love, affection and I dare say money that was lavished upon her!
She was a Bombay Tomtit and was built before WWII very close to where she was sailed on the East Coast for many years, she was an extremely handsome wooden day boat and had been a part of river life for many many years. My father 'rescued' her several years ago and restored her to her former glory. Seeing her make her way down river, her white sails filled with the wind, the sun glinting off her teak decks and her white hull slicing through the water, she was a joy to behold and joy to us all. Not to mention a VERY sucessful racer - the Bombay Bowl was a feature on our dining room table for several years.
This however, is NOT Makai, as it is somewhat difficult to photograph a boat when you're in it! But apart from the decking, she looked identical. It was a terrible terrible shock and so unexpected.The Tomtit fleet at Orford was made up of 4 boats, Nadya (4), Hebe (5 - pictured), Tania (8) and our darling Makai (9).
I heard today that come next summer (we hope!) there will
once again be 4 Bombay Tomtits at Orford as my father has decided to ask the boatbuilder in whose shed she was to rebuild her. A brave decision and one that I am absolutely thrilled about.
It was the thought of 'bits' of her being left (we still have her sails and mast) that was the heartbreaking thing, but as some parts of the old Makai will be be part of the new Makai, she will still be with us and will continue to sail on the River Ore.
Not to mention the fact that I reckon that the Bridges' should have first dibs on the Bombay Bowl for the next few years....
Friday, 30 April 2010
Bish Bash Bosh
Accelerated LPC? Get in the way of our travel plans? No way man. Passed and out of the way.
Guatemala/Belize/Honduras... we're coming to visit you!
Lhas xx
Guatemala/Belize/Honduras... we're coming to visit you!
Lhas xx
Wednesday, 28 April 2010
¡Escuchame!
It's hard to believe that in one week's time, Milla and I will be en route to Ecuador (we'll probably be in the air between Houston and Quito). It's mostly because there's so much to do between now and then! What with the inevitable pre-trip socialising with people I'm not going to see for 2 months, wearing in my "remedial" travel sandals and packing up my ever-expanding stuff to put into storage, there doesn't seem to be a huge amount of time to think about the actual travelling! That said, taking my first antimalarials today made it all the more real.
I suppose that waiting for results is the top priority anyway. Roll on Friday already, so we know that we haven't failed anything and have to curtail the travels.
Still, things are moving along. Instead of just obsessive list-making, I actually went to Selfridges and Boots (with a list, of course) and went slightly mental, buying pretty much everything. I'm pretty sure I'm well stocked up on sunblock, padlock and other toiletries, but not sure I've got enough mosquito repellant... emergency trip to Boots?
For now, I bid you adieu whilst I catch up on my trash TV for the last time - coping for 2 months with just a rucksack and three pairs of shoes, none of which are heels, is bad enough, but I have to not be on the cutting edge of Glee and Gossip Girl as well? Man alive. I leave you with the youtube video of that classic Sash song, "Ecuador", to get you into the mood.
I suppose that waiting for results is the top priority anyway. Roll on Friday already, so we know that we haven't failed anything and have to curtail the travels.
Still, things are moving along. Instead of just obsessive list-making, I actually went to Selfridges and Boots (with a list, of course) and went slightly mental, buying pretty much everything. I'm pretty sure I'm well stocked up on sunblock, padlock and other toiletries, but not sure I've got enough mosquito repellant... emergency trip to Boots?
For now, I bid you adieu whilst I catch up on my trash TV for the last time - coping for 2 months with just a rucksack and three pairs of shoes, none of which are heels, is bad enough, but I have to not be on the cutting edge of Glee and Gossip Girl as well? Man alive. I leave you with the youtube video of that classic Sash song, "Ecuador", to get you into the mood.
Monday, 26 April 2010
In which we start to get organised
Right. 8 days to go until we jet off to the great unknown to join the great unwashed in that great big world that exists outside BPP and THE LAW. It is all getting very exciting. We are both jabbed and antimalarialed up - Claire slightly more than me. I think at the last count Claire's bloodstream is awash with rabies, hepatitis A and B, yellow fever, typhoid, tetanus and polio, so please watch out. Annoy her and she may bite.
I, on the other hand, am slightly less infectious but no less excited. Preparations are getting there, although once again (and I fear this may turn into a pattern) Claire is MUCH more organised!
Whilst she checks the guide book (our trusty Rough) and makes LISTS (we LOVE lists) I am wiping snotty noses, bathing grazed knees, cajoling into showers and persuading small children to eat their greens. Such is the life of a prep school matron and yep, I am back at Hanford
http://www.hanford.dorset.sch.uk
I answered the call on Thursday evening and have been working there since Friday. Several matrons are stuck abroad due to this pesky volcano - I can't spell it and all I can remember is that it sounds like a sneeze - leaving the matrons that were there very stretched. I spent 4 months working there in my original gap yah which was nearly 7 years ago! Eeek! How time does fly. My services have been called upon now and again since then but as this is Hanford, nothing changes so it is simple to slot back in.
Normal duties involve putting them to bed (getting in and out of showers, getting them to put their dirty stuff in the wash, teeth brushing and general nannying) and then getting them to shut up and go to sleep. Not as easy as it sounds when you have 40 8-10yr olds all of whom are sleeping in the same dorm as their best friends and you're trying to get them to go to bed when it is still light outside. Morning routine means getting them up, dressed and tidy for breakfast, serving breakfast and then tidying up after them once they've gone to Chapel and lessons, sorting out the dirty washing and putting away the clean. All good fun and I get to spend a lot of time playing with them after prep and before bedtime.
There are some real characters, and they all have what I consider to be proper names - such as Celia, Georgia, Caroline, Honor, Fenella, Alexandra, Lara, Cordelia, Ophelia, Rose etc. None of this modern stuff. Most of them look as if they've been dragged through a hedge backwards by the end of the day but they are all, for the most part, happy children who are, most importantly, allowed to be CHILDREN.
This is taking up most of my time at the moment, which is a good thing as a) I need the cash! and b) it is distracting me from the Day of Doom (aka Friday) but it'll only be for a few more days before I can join the real world.
Apologies to everyone who has been ignored due to my lack of internet and phone reception. Key people include our darling and beloved Krishna and The Beloved....
I, on the other hand, am slightly less infectious but no less excited. Preparations are getting there, although once again (and I fear this may turn into a pattern) Claire is MUCH more organised!
Whilst she checks the guide book (our trusty Rough) and makes LISTS (we LOVE lists) I am wiping snotty noses, bathing grazed knees, cajoling into showers and persuading small children to eat their greens. Such is the life of a prep school matron and yep, I am back at Hanford
http://www.hanford.dorset.sch.uk
I answered the call on Thursday evening and have been working there since Friday. Several matrons are stuck abroad due to this pesky volcano - I can't spell it and all I can remember is that it sounds like a sneeze - leaving the matrons that were there very stretched. I spent 4 months working there in my original gap yah which was nearly 7 years ago! Eeek! How time does fly. My services have been called upon now and again since then but as this is Hanford, nothing changes so it is simple to slot back in.
Normal duties involve putting them to bed (getting in and out of showers, getting them to put their dirty stuff in the wash, teeth brushing and general nannying) and then getting them to shut up and go to sleep. Not as easy as it sounds when you have 40 8-10yr olds all of whom are sleeping in the same dorm as their best friends and you're trying to get them to go to bed when it is still light outside. Morning routine means getting them up, dressed and tidy for breakfast, serving breakfast and then tidying up after them once they've gone to Chapel and lessons, sorting out the dirty washing and putting away the clean. All good fun and I get to spend a lot of time playing with them after prep and before bedtime.
There are some real characters, and they all have what I consider to be proper names - such as Celia, Georgia, Caroline, Honor, Fenella, Alexandra, Lara, Cordelia, Ophelia, Rose etc. None of this modern stuff. Most of them look as if they've been dragged through a hedge backwards by the end of the day but they are all, for the most part, happy children who are, most importantly, allowed to be CHILDREN.
This is taking up most of my time at the moment, which is a good thing as a) I need the cash! and b) it is distracting me from the Day of Doom (aka Friday) but it'll only be for a few more days before I can join the real world.
Apologies to everyone who has been ignored due to my lack of internet and phone reception. Key people include our darling and beloved Krishna and The Beloved....
Sunday, 25 April 2010
Pre Gap Yah
I'm feeling the need to explain the URL and the regular use of the ending "ah". There's only one way to do this and that's via an overexposed Youtube video. Hilaire.
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